A quick search online will show you lots of templates for making one of these super-cute votive candle shades. When assembled, the shade rests on the rim of a water or wine glass, and the small votive candle or LED-candle sits inside. I traced a template on vellum paper, stamped it several times, and cut it out. Nothing else required, and instant cuteness! (Image: Daisy by Nature’s Blessings Fine Art Stamps)
This time of year, many of our friends and family are crossing an important landmark in their lives…graduation! Many children now celebrate graduation from preschool and elementary school, and recently a very accomplished woman in Germany received her doctorate at 102 years old. No matter what age, everyone likes to have an important event in their lives celebrated and appreciated, and a very appropriate way to do so is to send a card. Of course one that you make yourself is an especially nice touch, and you can always tuck a little something inside, like a gift card or money to recognize their accomplishment.
Here is a card that is very easy to make. The style is simple but elegant, just like that diploma they recently received! Stamp Professor Owl by Nature’s Blessings Fine Art Stamps on crisp white card stock. Crop it as needed, but leave plenty of white space around the image. Now find a piece of red card stock, and trim it to be slightly larger than the white card you just stamped on. Cut four diagonal slits in the corners, and tuck in corners of the stamped card. Now find a ribbon with a bit of gold in it, something that looks collegiate. The easiest way to tack it on is to use a bit of spray adhesive, and then tuck the ends around the back side of the red card.
Now find a piece of black card stock, and fold it in half so it will be slightly larger than the red card. If you use a bone folder, and score the paper before you fold it, your fold should look neat and crisp. Run the bone folder along the fold to flatten it. Crop it as needed, and mount the red card on top with adhesive squares. And there you are! Choose your own sentiment, or use this one: Hoo hoo whoooo graduated? (Inside) You did! Congratulations!
Monotype printing is a single-print technique where you can get a lot of neat effects and make papers for collage, card making, and scrapbooking. What I like about the technique the way I’ll show you here is how inexpensive it is, and how you can use rubber stamps you already have.
To start you’ll need a few supplies:
- a few thick / stiff plastic sandwich bags (quart-size Ziplock storage or freezer bags work well)
- some tubes of acrylic paint
- cards or paper you want to print onto
- a brayer (rubber roller)
- a tray for the paint (I’m using a plastic storage container, you could also use another plastic bag)
- stamp pad cleaner (paint pads work well)
- rubber stamp(s) – I’m using Butterfly by Nature’s Blessings Fine Art Stamps
Start by squeezing a dime-sized blob of paint into your plastic container, then roll the brayer over it until you get good, even coverage. Then roll the brayer back and forth over one side of a plastic bag. You want the coverage to be opaque, but not too goopy or thick.
Next, take your stamp, and press it onto the painted surface of the plastic bag. You can even wiggle it around a bit to make sure you get a good image. Then holding the bag, pull up the stamp and rub it on the stamp cleaning pad to get rid of the paint on the surface of the stamp. You will see that you have left a negative image in the paint on the bag. Do this several times again, quickly, before the paint gets too dry.
Place your piece of paper or card stock on the plastic bag, and rub it with your finger to get a good transfer of the ink from the bag to the paper. Then, holding the bag, gently peel back your paper and see your unique print! I find that one application of paint is good for about one card, but you can re-ink the bag with the same color and do another print.
A few tips: if the paint is too dry it your paper may stick to it when you try to pull it off. If you aim for opaque coverage, you should be fine. If you get too much paint on the bag, your images will be less distinct. This is fine, and looks kind of cool. Just let that layer dry, and then you can stamp over the top in a contrasting color. Also, you can try mixing a couple shades of paint, blending them in the plastic container before you roll it on the bag. This produces some really neat effects. Experiment and have fun!
If you enjoy collage, you will find a lot of uses for your rubber stamps. And, if you haven’t tried cardmaking yet, I highly recommend it. You may find it is the perfect way to experiment with new techniques or showcase small art, plus when you are done, you can mail it off to a friend!
For this project, I was actually experimenting with a tiny monoprint of a hand-drawn squirrel. I wasn’t planning to use it for anything in particular but I liked how it turned out. So I let it dry, and colored it with Prismacolor pencils to the point I thought I could make something out of it. After spending the time on it, I figured, why not use it for a card?
So I dug into my craft papers, and found some “woodsy” selections – papers with lots of fibers in them that produced interesting textures. I moistened and tore the red fiber paper so it would come out with a ragged edge. Then I cut the delicate white paper in a broad strip. Trying different ways layer and position them, I found a composition that I liked. But I needed something to tie it all together to form the base of the card.
Digging in my paper stash again, I found a piece of black card stock. Folded in half, it worked well as a card base, and I liked the dark background, but it needed something to give it visual interest. So I went to my stamps, and found the perfectly “woodsy” one for my project – Pine Bough with Cones, by Nature’s Blessings.
I chose silver pigment ink to match the bright value of the piece of delicate white paper, and stamped the image several times around the edge of the card, layering the images and changing their angle each time so the effect would be more like a close up of a pine tree, rather than a single branch, repeated. Sometimes I stamped twice before re-inking so the second image would be lighter, and appear to be farther away.
Then I attached the three pieces of paper with spray adhesive (this worked especially well with the delicate white paper, since any thing else I had would either tear the paper, or show through its fibers). As a final touch, I cut a piece of thick jute twine, tied it into a bow, and pulled the plied fibers apart and teased them a bit to soften their appearance. A little dab of E6000 adhesive tacked it down.
And here is the finished project, which started off as an experimental doodle!
Rubber Stamps can be combined in all kinds of ways to create new scenes. You can use entire stamps, or just parts of them by selectively inking the lines you want with a felt tip pen. By using the simple masking technique (described in this previous post), you can make some images appear to be in the foreground, and some in the background. You can play with size and perspective. What story will you tell with your stamps?
Here is one of mine — I used several stamps: Butterfly, Night Sky (just the clouds, repeating the image), Downy Woodpecker, Girl Catching Snowflakes (just the girl), and Anemone. The scene is colored with Prismacolor Pencils, and I drew in a horizon line for depth. Many of the images are intentionally cropped at the edge of the paper, to give the sense of a larger scene contained by the frame of the paper’s edge.
Can you figure out what order I stamped them in?
Answer? The order is: Girl, Night Sky, Butterfly, Anemone, Woodpecker (but the order really only matters for those items that overlap).
Many thanks for the caption, Arwa!
Part of the fun of having detailed rubber stamps is finding parts of them that can be used in other projects. Once you start to look at your stamps this way, you will find lots of possibilities for using them in ways that are different from the whole image or scene you are presented with on the stamp. It is like having 10 stamps in one! You’ll find new ways to use them, or combine them into scenes that no one has thought of before. It is part of the creativity you bring to your rubber stamp art.
For this project, I’ll be making a frame pendant for a necklace, and I need a very small image. I decided to use Children Feeding Squirrels from Nature’s Blessings Fine Art Stamps, and selected just one small part of it for my project — the squirrel facing front in the lower right-hand side of the image.
Below is a close up of the part I want to use. I stamped and watercolored just this part of the image, and trimmed it closely using a small pair of very sharp scissors.
You can easily find frame pendants online in lots of different styles, or in jewelry-making supply stores. The pendant I have is particularly deep, so I can make a tiny 3D scene within it. To start, I created a background with red and blue metallic paper and glued this to the bottom of the frame. Then I raised the squirrel up off of the surface of the pendant about 2 millimeters using a small piece of double-sided adhesive foam (Mini Pop Dots work well for this). Lastly I added a small gold star for the squirrel to hold (a quirky design that reminded me of a meme, but you can do whatever you like).
Then, using 3D Crystal Lacquer, I filled in first the area around the edge of the frame, and then worked my way slowly towards the center, allowing the lacquer to fill in beneath the squirrel. 3D Crystal Lacquer is very thick and viscous and fills in slowly. Avoid shaking the bottle before you apply it as this will create lots of bubbles. As it is, it is hard to avoid some tiny bubbles, but using a pin, you can work them to the edge of your piece, or pop them as they rise to the surface. The lacquer sets in a few minutes, and will settle a bit as it dries, so be sure to fill in with additional layers. I used 3-4 layers of lacquer to build up a thick surface that filled in the pendant, which hardened to the touch within about 24 hours.
Here is the result!
I wouldn’t call making an altered tin a quick project, but it is one that can be easily done in an afternoon. It is tremendously rewarding both for how creatively versatile it is, as well as that the end result makes a great gift.
Tins and boxes of all shapes, sizes and materials can be covered or “altered” this way. For my project, I chose a breath mint tin so that the finished project would be small and portable. I started by coloring the top of the tin around the edge with a black permanent marker to hide the branded design printed on the tin itself.
For the stamped image, I chose Little Red Riding Hood by Nature’s Blessings Fine Art Stamps, which I masked and then over stamped with Pond 2 to surround the character with a bit of scenery. I then colored the entire image with Prismacolor Pencils, and trimmed the corners. Next, I pressed the edges of the stamped image onto a pad of embossing ink, dipped them in gold embossing powder, and heated them to give the image a gold-trimmed edge.
Then using a decoupage adhesive / sealer like Mod Podge, I trimmed and glued a patterned background paper on the top of the tin. In a few minutes when it was dry to the touch, I added the white trimmed paper to frame the stamped image. Lastly I glued on my stamped image. When all layers were dry, I covered them all with a thin layer of the sealer. I let the sealer dry, then applied about three additional layers, allowing each to dry in-between coats. The sealer dries transparent, giving the surface a matte sheen, and protecting the layers from being easily peeled or chipped off.
Finally, I embellished the top with a bit of black gold-edged ribbon, and added a jewelry finding on top. both were glued with E6000 craft adhesive. I also trimmed the edge of the tin with a narrower band of black ribbon, that also had a gold metallic edge.
The rest of the tin can be finished or not as you choose. You could also decoupage the inside of the tin as well as the bottom, using the same technique as you used for the top. For a finishing touch, I decided to line the inside of the tin with parchment, and to add a black matte paper on the bottom of the tin.
Next comes the fun of deciding what should go inside the tin. I noticed that my Windsor & Newton watercolor pans all fit neatly inside, and that by adding a plastic tray, pencil, brush (cut down to size), and small pieces of watercolor paper trimmed to fit, I had a small super-portable watercolor set!
It is much lighter and compact than the watercolor pans are in their original field box, which makes this version much more portable, great for “stealth” painting – just open up your tin outdoors or in a cafe, and you are set to paint. Then when you are done, pack up your supplies in the tin, pop it into your pocket or purse, and off you go!
If you make this project as a gift, there are all kinds of things you could pack inside. Here are some ideas: a few fancy tea bags, a small sewing kit, a pocket-sized first-aid kit, a small puzzle, a handmade necklace or earrings, a deck of cards, an assortment of hair accessories, or even breath mints! Have fun, and let your creativity go free!
For this project, we’ll be making a necklace pendant that looks like hand-tooled leather, but isn’t! And the best part is you can design it to feature your favorite stamp. The one I’ve chosen is Peony by Nature’s Blessings Fine Art Stamps.
Begin with a small piece of beige craft foam, about 3 mm thick. You can easily find craft foam at most big craft supply stores, usually in the kids section. Look for something that has a leather-like color. I’ve used gray, beige, and brown, all with good results. Begin by cutting a small circle of from your piece of craft foam. Then take a piece of 220-grit sandpaper, and rough up the edges and surface a bit to make it look distressed, and more like a worn piece of leather.
Next, heat the circle of foam with your embossing heat gun for a few seconds until the edges start to curl. Then using a fine-detail black ink, stamp down in the surface of the foam. It will leave an imprint of the ink, and the depression will remain in the surface even after the foam has cooled. At this point, spray your pendant with workable fixative so that the ink doesn’t smear. When it dries, make a small hole at the top using a punch.
Next, color your image using a combination of Pearl Ex powders, mixed with a little water and gum arabic to form a paste (the gum arabic acts as a binder and will help the Pearl Ex powders adhere to the surface). Apply the colors to the top surface of the pendant using a cotton swab. I used #655 Super Copper for the background, and #658 Aztec Gold to highlight the petals. Avoid getting the powder on the black ink so you maintain the contrast and definition of your image. When you are done coloring the image, spray it with a matte acrylic final fixative to set the image and powders.
At this point, you have lots of options for how to finish the pendant. I chose to add a red eyelet. To do this, you’ll need an eyelet-setting tool and a hammer and setting pad. It is very easy to use, just thread the eyelet through the hole, insert the stylus into the open end of the eyelet and strike the end of the stylus with the hammer to set it. It will now grip the edge of the foam, and provide a more secure means of hanging the pendant.
Lastly, thread a jump ring through the eyelet, and your pendant is complete!
Mother’s Day is coming up! Here is a card you can make and give mom from the Nature’s Blessings “quick card” department (they don’t call us Sonic Stampers for nothing!). When you don’t have a lot of time, I find you can usually make a great card by using a single stamp as a focal image.
For my focal image, I chose Lily of the Valley by Nature’s Blessings Fine Art Stamps. Lily of the valley (also known as muguet) is a flower with a sweet heady fragrance. Its flowers are shaped like a cascade of tiny bells. It blooms right around Mother’s Day in the Northern Hemisphere (second Sunday in May), and is seen as a sign of spring. It is often used in spring weddings.
To start with, you’ll want to dig into your stash of papers and embellishments. Layers of art paper trimmed to size, in contrasting colors and textures, will add interest and do a lot of the design work for you. Start by stamping and coloring your focal image. This will help you decide what kinds of papers you want to use.
I stamped Lily of the Valley in a light gray, and then colored it with Prismacolor Pencils, which layer and blend together beautifully. It came out soft and delicate, so I chose pink contrasting paper to go with it, along with a sheet of decorative paper lace.
I wrote “Mother” in pink pencil, and for a finishing touch, embossed the bells of the lily and the word “Mother” with pearlescent embossing powder. A touch of glitter for a bit of sparkle would have worked well too.
And here it is! Happy Mother’s Day!
Ombré, where one color gradually fades or transitions to another color, is very popular right now in beauty, fashion and decorative arts. The ombré look is also very easy to achieve with your rubber stamps, and I’ll show you several techniques here. The easiest technique is simply to stamp your image multiple times without re-inking the stamp. The image will fade a bit with each impression, as shown here using Nature’s Blessings Fine Art Stamps Butterfly:
Another technique uses a brayer and piece of linoleum to achieve an ombré background. Take a rubber stamp pad (I find that a pigment pad works best for this) and press it several times onto the linoleum so that you have plenty of pigment to work with. Keep the pigment to one half of the linoleum surface. Then, take your brayer and roll it over the linoleum so that you coat just one half of it. Make sure you have good coverage all around the circumference of the brayer, and that the coverage is even.
Now, position the brayer just off the edge of your card so the edge of the brayer won’t leave an obvious line on it. Run the brayer back and forth, slowly working your towards the center of the paper so that the amount of pigment transferred to the paper is gradually reduced. You may need to practice a bit to achieve this evenness. I find that moving fully across the card each time, and picking up your brayer after each movement keeps the brayer rolling, reducing lines or other artifacts.
Now you can use it as a background. Here I’ve made it into a card by stamping an image onto it, using the same color ink I rolled onto the card with the brayer. The stamp image is Peony by Nature’s Blessings Fine Art Stamps.
The third technique also uses the brayer and the linoleum. This time you will add two colors, one on each side of the linoleum. Run the brayer across the surface of the linoleum, blending the two colors a bit in the middle. Next, using the brayer with the two colors on it, ink a stamp. I’m using the Peony stamp again here. Try not to move the brayer from side to side, just back and forth across the stamp from top to bottom. This way the blended colors will be transferred to the rubber surface of the stamp, just as you put them on your brayer.
Now turn the stamp over, and press it onto the surface of your project. I decided to use silver card stock, since it has a light sheen and medium value, and really showcases the ombré image. I think it would make a beautiful wedding invitation!